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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.